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What should I remember buying a wooden cabin?
Wood has a number of specific characteristics, which are natural and inherent to it. The biggest practical moment, that the wood has its specific colour and density, also the effect of humidity result.
In longitudinal cut most of the wood has a nice, decorative and often very appreciable cut-out which is called texture.
Wood has a specific scent. The scent is given by attars, resins and fermented substances. New-mown wood gives a better scent.
A very important attribute of the wood is to store and easily return the water. The bad linear measurements and volumes increase.
Attribute is to bloat and dry out. When wood is drying, it shrinks its linear measurements and volume decrease. When the wood absorbs humidity, its downsides inside layers. That is why, when the outer layers start to shrink, the inside layers, due to bigger wetness, oppose to drawing. Firstly the surface is chapping, next the inside. When wood dries it can have longitudinal or cross warp. Longitudinal: When dried straight balk bends, flat plank twists and gets the form of the
propeller. Cross: When the form of woods’ cross-section is changing, quadratic balk becomes the balk with rectangular or rhomb cross-section, flat plank becomes hunched.
Wood has a number of specific technological characteristics. It easily splits along the fibre, nicely holding metal fastenings, it can flex easily, is durable to depreciation. Screws hold in the wood extremely well. Screws have a much better grip with the wood than the nails, and they do not cut the strings.
of the wood are that it chaps and warps. When wood dries, humidity firstly evaporates from the surface, outer layers and only after from deeper Peculiarity of the wood (taints) origin, is so varied, that the concepts “normal wood” or “subnormal wood” often has a conditional complexion. On sawn-on wood and sawn timber assortment following fungus taints may occur: mould, brownness. Mould funguses generally do not affect physical and mechanical characteristics of the wood.
When wood is affected by biological (fungus), physical (environmental temperature and humidity) and chemical factors – it decomposes.
Wood may last a long time, but volatile humidity and temperature of the environment reduces its lasting, because of that, a variety of cracks, which can damage the woods’ integrity ,upspring, that facilitates woods’ infection with fungus, and its rapid development. The older the wood is, the better its timbers durability is.
The most effective way to protect the wood from insect and decay is to soak it with special preparations, which are toxic to fungus and insects, – antiseptics, branchy wood, cracks, subnormal structure, infractions made by fungus and insects.

What should I know about bitumen tiles?

The bituminous flexible shingles (tiles) are tiled on pitched roofs the inclination of which minimum is 12° * (please ask more for details). The shingles are used for installation of the new roofs or reconstruction of the old ones.

All packages of bituminous shingles are provided with the detailed user’s instruction how to install a roof and lay the tiles. The instruction contains the description how to install a roof using bituminous and flexible bituminous shingles, made from glass-fibber felt with reinforced bottom, modified and oxidised bitumen.
One does not need to have any special instruments or skills for roof installation. Materials of a small volume and lightweight easily fit into ones automobile, no special lifting equipment needed to place them on a roof.

Do not store pallets with production on top of each other. To avoid sticking of tiles inside the package they must be protected from direct sunlight. To separate any stuck tiles in the package, bend it a little and shake before opening.
Slight colour difference of shingles is not a defect; it is typical for flexible shingles of any manufacturer. In order to minimize the possible colour difference it is recommended during the installation to mix shingles from 5 – 6 packs in random pattern. Before installing shingles, remove a silicone membrane from their bottom side. Every shingle is nailed to the roof deck with wide-head galvanized nails; the number of nails depends on the size of slope. Nailing should be done in such a way that a nail head is on the same plane with the tile and not embedded within. Nails should be nailed 2 – 3 cm from the edge of shingle.

A solid base should be prepared for tiling of bituminous and bituminous flexible shingles. Edges of sheets are fastened with wood nails or screw nails. In order the service time of wooden roof construction to be as long as possible, they are impregnated with antiseptic and fire retardant materials.
If the roofing works are performed at low temperatures, always heat the adhesive bottom side of a tile using industrial fan.

To avoid damage to roof covering, cut roofing materials on a special board!
We recommend using ridge – cornice shingles as an initial row.

In case of a long slope it is recommended to start the first row from the middle of the slope 1-2 cm away from the ridge – cornice shingles.
The second row is installed above the first. Shingles are shifted by half a leaf to the left or to the right. Shingles are put in alignment with the top part of cut-outs of the first row of tiles.
The third and subsequent rows are laid over the second row shifting shingles again by half a leaf to the left or to the right. The whole roof is covered following this method.
It is recommended that 10 cm of the underside of the edge shingle should be covered with special mastics (glue) in order to get maximum protection of the roof against cross-rain. 2-3 cm of the top corners of side shingles that are lying on the metal edge of the slope should be cut off.


Roof ridge is installed with roof ridge-cornice tiles (0,25×1,00 m). On spots of perforation the roof ridge-cornice tiles are divided into 3 parts and tiled with 5 cm overlap. Differently than in the event of cornice, the roof ridge tiles are tiled short sidelong towards the direction of a pitch.
A bitumen roof ridge/cornice tile is pasted along a ridge of cornice, on a metal part, a tile must be moved back from the margin of a metal part 10-20 mm. Remove a silicones film from a bottom adhesive surface of a tile prior to pasting. An extra fixation of a roof ridge/cornice tile with nails is necessary. The butt strips are laid on spots of junction of pitches; their margins are fastened with nails and spread with bitumen mastic.
On spots of perforation the roof ridge-cornice tiles are divided into 3 parts and tiled with 3 – 5 cm overlap. Differently than in the event of cornice, the roof ridge tiles are tiled short sidelong towards the direction of a pitch.

1. Overlap 50 mm
If you are going to put tiles at the outside temperature lower than -5°C degrees is recommended to bent them on a heated 10 cm diameter tube in order to avoid cracks. In the cold season, shingles should be brought at the temperature more than +5ºC not less than 12 hours before use.

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